Sat, Oct 3 — Day 1
Arrival
~4:00pm
Land Haneda (United PE), clear customs, set up Suica/Passmo, head to lodging.
lodging — booked ✓
SHIN House, Shinjuku (Airbnb)
Hot tub · 10 min to Golden Gai · Shinjuku station for the Romancecar to Hakone.
independentEvening
Everyone's jet-lagged — easy neighborhood dinner near lodging, early night.
If energy allows: first walk through Shibuya; Troy Common or SG Club for one drink.
Note: Tokyo City Flea Market runs weekends — tomorrow (Sun) is the better flea day if jet lag wins tonight.
Sun, Oct 4 — Day 2 · Aaron's Birthday
Flea market, then birthday dinner
groupLate morningTroy
Tokyo City Flea Market — low-commitment, jet-lag-friendly. Oi Racecourse or a central Sunday market. ⚠ verify it's running, weather-dependent
independentAfternoon
Open window before the evening.
Aaron+Fairuz Kudochi Onsen private sauna, birthday reset ⚠ advance booking only
Sarah K Yayoi Kusama Museum, timed entry ⚠ books out — reserve ahead
Others: rest or Shibuya shopping
groupLate afternoon
Nakano Broadway — Taco Che, record shops, arcade nostalgia. All one neighborhood, no train needed for the rest of the night.
groupPre-dinner
Cocktails at BAR23, Nakano.
locked7:30pm
Birthday dinner — Maguro Mart, Nakano. Tuna omakase; scrape-your-own backbone. ⚠ cash only · books 1 month ahead — reserve now
groupAfter dinner
Bar crawl, all within the neighborhood: JUKE 80's (music request bar) → JET BAR / SNA BAR → VICTORIA nightcap.
Mon, Oct 5 — Day 3
Tsukiji + Asakusa day
group~8:00am
Tsukiji Market breakfast — tamagoyaki skewers → counter sushi → knife stalls. Eat standing at stalls; cash helps. ⚠ verify Mon open
groupMidday
Asakusa + Senso-ji + Kappabashi — temple, old-town streets, kitchenware street (knives, ceramics, fake food). ⚠ ~30% of Kappabashi closed Sundays — Monday is good
Aaron craft shops: Dengama ceramics, Kama-Asa knives, Sato Sample fake food. Sarah K mingei-adjacent. Yanaka is one neighborhood north for a late wander.
groupEveningTroy
Sumo Wrestler Dinner, Asakusa — chankonabe. ⚠ reserve ahead
Branch: Yanaka at sunset, Yuyake Dandan stairs before dinner — quiet old-Tokyo wander.
Tue, Oct 6 — Day 4
Cats + Kusama
groupMorning
Gotokuji Cat Temple + Setagaya tram — Shibuya → Sangenjaya → tram → temple (lucky-cat origin shrine).
groupAfternoon
Yayoi Kusama Museum — polka dots + infinity rooms. ⚠ timed entry — book well ahead, sells out
groupEvening
Golden Gai — the one everyone's been wanting to see. Labyrinthine alley bars, each with its own personality.
branch (2–4 people)EveningAaron
Bar Gen Yamamoto — cocktail omakase, 8 seats, realistically not all five. ⚠ phone-only, opens exactly 7 days out — Will to call ~Oct 6. Closed Sun/Mon, Tue works.
Parallel for everyone else: Golden Gai, SG Club or "Common" (Troy picks), or Ni-chōme.
Wed, Oct 7 — Day 5 · Travel
Tokyo → Hakone
Morning
Last Tokyo window / pack. ⚠ Kappabashi or any missed item can happen here if the train's not too early
travelMidday
Odakyu Romancecar, ~90 min. ⚠ train time TBD
🎒 Backpacks only — main suitcases are being forwarded directly to Osaka. Hakone is light.
lodging — booked ✓
Lake Side Inn MIRAHAKONE, Moto-Hakone — lakefront, right by the shrine.
groupAfternoon
Hakone Open-Air Museum — sculpture park + foot bath. ⚠ open 9:00–17:00, last entry 16:30